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5'9 RABBITSFOOT

Ride the long side of the rail on your toe side, and surf them farther forward than you think, luckily there is a ton of reference material online to study on how to surf these babies best!
The more water moving up the face of the wave the better - your grip comes from the tension in the face of the wave, so the more tension (the hollower and tighter the wave’s face) the wave has, the more grip and control you’ll have.

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